Belfast hikes were beyond the pale
In part one of our story, we ended our visit to Dublin and then hopped on a train toward Northern Ireland to visit Belfast and its surroundings, including Belfast hikes. Belfast is the capital of Northern Ireland, a two-hour train ride from Dublin. Northern Ireland is part of the UK and not part of the Republic of Ireland. But it doesn’t share hard borders with the rest of the Island; no passports are required. But you must have UK pounds to spend.
Visiting Belfast brings a tingling of apprehension in me as I remember being a kid and sitting with my dad as he watched the terrorist attacks during the 60s and 70s. I think this left a deep impression on me. But Belfast today is safe, and only echoes of the “troubles” days remain. Some tensions still exist between Catholics and Protestants, but they work together to achieve peace and stability.
The differences between Belfast and Dublin are evident the minute you cross the invisible border. Even though Belfast is smaller, it feels less relaxed and more impersonal than Dublin. Tourists and locals seem more conservative to me. The corporate grip is also more visible and reminds me of America in some ways. And it also feels like England and not Ireland. Belfast has many more scars than I can comprehend, and I feel sympathy for this place that has been through a lot.
Still, to this day, there are two sides to Belfast:
The “two sides” are the nationalist or republican community, who are usually (but not always) Catholic and identify as Irish; and the unionist or loyalist community, largely Protestant, who identify as British and wish to remain in “the union” that forms the United Kingdom of Northern Ireland and Great Britain.(Time)
Take a political tour and learn it from the locals. The tours are well-organized and safe. These tour guides are usually cab drivers/tour guides. Our guide was a fantastic guy and super knowledgeable about Belfast’s history. His tour was nothing short of performance, and it was like we were in a movie.
The tour will take you to the peace wall, separating Protestant and Catholic communities. During the day, the wall and communities are open for visitation, but the gates will be closed at night.
The tour ends with a visit to the Springhill massacre site. In this event, the British Army killed five Catholic residents on 9 July 1972 in the Springhill estate in West Belfast, Northern Ireland. Three victims were teenagers, including a 13-year-old girl; another was a catholic priest waving a white flag as he attended to one of the injured. The incident took place during The Troubles.[1] (Wikipedia)
The political complexities of Northern Ireland are difficult to understand in one take. One can feel dissatisfaction and unresolved grievances in the air. I hear of NI wanting to be re-integrated into Ireland. The newest contributor to political change can be attributed to Brexit as Northern Ireland finds itself in a less secure and disadvantaged situation.
And I guess we need a beer. And the pub scene in NI is nothing short of extraordinary. But if you’re also hungry and want to kill two birds, please go to The Crown Liquor Saloon. Historically one of the most important pubs in NI. Make your reservation because if you try your luck just showing up, not even the Irish luck might save you. I’ve asked some guys in the boot if they were leaving, and one of them replied, “no, we live here.” The food at the Saloon is fantastic, and the pub is stunningly beautiful.
Another place not to be missed is John Long’s Fish & Chips. Mingle with locals and eat the best fish & Chips in Ireland.
At the end of 1914, John Long converted part of his grocery shop to sell fish & chips. One hundred years and only two owners later, Long’s is still a Belfast institution.When it opened, Long’s was in a bustling area of Belfast. Over on the waterside, the Harland and Wolff shipyards, most famous for building the RMS Titanic, were thriving as they built ships for the war effort. Around Long’s were the factories of Belfast’s other famous trade of the time- linen mills. These workers first went to Long’s for good quality, reasonably priced, and filling food.
What to take a break from the city and start exploring the Belfast hikes. We just took a bus to the very north of the island to meet the giant Causeway natural formation in person. A little more than an hour from Belfast. The bus ride itself was a treat. There are beautiful hikes to have in the area.
Back in Belfast for one more round. To finish our Belfast experience, we went to the Titanic museum. And yes, I had no idea the Titanic was built in Belfast, and it was also where it started its ill-fated maiden voyage. This museum is simply the best and most complete Titanic museum ever made. An amazing-looking building as high as the Titanic. Not only is a history master class about the Titanic and its demise but a history class about Belfast working-class challenges in the early 1900s Belfast.
Our three-day visit to Belfast is over. Now we hop on a bus and go back to Dublin. We’re back to the airport to rent a car and drive down to Cork…to be continued.
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